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Gaughan & Komar 1975

Gaughan, M.K. and Komar, P.D. (1975). The theory of wave propagation in water of gradually varying depth and the prediction of breaker type and height. Journal of Geophysical Research 80: doi: 10.1029/JC080i021p02991. issn: 0148-0227.

Keywords
Oceanography, Surface waves, tides, and sea level

Journal
Journal of Geophysical Research
http://www.agu.org/journals/jb/

Publisher
American Geophysical Union
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