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Liu & Mei 1976
Liu, P.L.F. and Mei, C.C. (1976). Water motion on a beach in the presence of a breakwater 1. Waves. Journal of Geophysical Research 81: doi: 10.1029/JC081i018p03079. issn: 0148-0227.

For a long breakwater on a slowly varying bottom as asymptotic theory is given which accounts for the combined effects of refraction and Fresnel diffraction of water waves. Numerical examples are given for two cases: an offshore breakwater and an isolated jetty.

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Journal
Journal of Geophysical Research
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American Geophysical Union
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