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Detailed Reference Information
Huang et al. 1983
Huang, N.E., Hwang, P.A., Wang, H., Long, S.R. and Bliven, L.F. (1983). A study on the spectral models for waves in finite water depth. Journal of Geophysical Research 88: doi: 10.1029/JC080i014p09579. issn: 0148-0227.

Spectural model for waves in finite water depths are developed based on an extension of the Wallops Spectrum (Huang et al., 1981 a) for the deep water waves. It is found that for intermediate water depths, Stokes wave expansion offer a good approximation. In this case, the spectral function is controlled by three parameters: the significant slope, &Sgr;; the nondimensional depth, kh; and the peak frequency, n0. For the shallow water waves solitary and cnoidal wave models have to be used. The controlling parameters now reduce to two again, that is, the Ursell umber, ur=<2&pgr;¿/(kh)3>, and the peak frequency. The resulting spectral models are designed with a specific emphasis on but not limited to the energy containing range of the spectrum: they are also not limited to any particular sea state. They offer a possible explanation of the variations in the spectral slope observed by previous investigators. Comparisons with observational results from both laboratory and field shows good agreements.

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Journal
Journal of Geophysical Research
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