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Tung et al. 1989
Tung, C.C., Huang, N.E., Yuan, Y. and Long, S.R. (1989). Probability function of breaking-limited surface elevation. Journal of Geophysical Research 94: doi: 10.1029/88JC03645. issn: 0148-0227.

The effect of wave breaking on the probability function of surface elevation is examined. The surface elevation limited by wave breaking &zgr;b(t) is first related to the original wave elevation &zgr;(t) and its second derivative &zgr;¿(t). An approximate, second-order, nonlinear, non-Gaussian model for &zgr;(t) of arbitrary but moderate bandwidth is presented, and an expression for the probability density function fb( ) of &zgr;b(t) is derived. The results show clearly that the effect of wave breaking on the probability density function of surface elevation is to introduce a secondary hump on the positive side of the probability density function, a phenomenon also observed in wind wave tank experiments. ¿ American Geophysical Union 1989

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Abstract

Keywords
Oceanography, Physical, Surface waves and tides
Journal
Journal of Geophysical Research
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American Geophysical Union
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