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Detailed Reference Information |
Tung, C.C., Huang, N.E., Yuan, Y. and Long, S.R. (1989). Probability function of breaking-limited surface elevation. Journal of Geophysical Research 94: doi: 10.1029/88JC03645. issn: 0148-0227. |
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The effect of wave breaking on the probability function of surface elevation is examined. The surface elevation limited by wave breaking &zgr;b(t) is first related to the original wave elevation &zgr;(t) and its second derivative &zgr;¿(t). An approximate, second-order, nonlinear, non-Gaussian model for &zgr;(t) of arbitrary but moderate bandwidth is presented, and an expression for the probability density function fb( ) of &zgr;b(t) is derived. The results show clearly that the effect of wave breaking on the probability density function of surface elevation is to introduce a secondary hump on the positive side of the probability density function, a phenomenon also observed in wind wave tank experiments. ¿ American Geophysical Union 1989 |
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Abstract |
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Keywords
Oceanography, Physical, Surface waves and tides |
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Publisher
American Geophysical Union 2000 Florida Avenue N.W. Washington, D.C. 20009-1277 USA 1-202-462-6900 1-202-328-0566 service@agu.org |
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