A breaking wavelet is taken to consist of a roller and a trailing turbulent wake, both riding on an irrotational wave. The shear stress force on the separation streamline between the roller and the underlying flow is balanced mainly by the horizontal pressure force on the same streamline. The pressure force acts on the underlying flow and reduces wavelet momentum; the shear force generates the momentum deficit of the wake. In this manner, wavelet momentum is turned into shear flow momentum. In wind-driven wavelets the shear force of the wind aids roller formation: rollers form at a relatively low approach momentum from boundary layer fluid generated by surface shear. Breaking wavelets have been modeled by superimposing the surface disturbance generated by a roller on a sinusoidal wave. The phase relationship of the two components determines how much momentum is extracted from the wave. The models show the characteristic asymmetric, forward leaning shape of breakers. The wave under the roller is shortened, so that the steepness of the breaker is even greater than it would be on account of the roller's presence alone. Ahead of the roller's toe, capillary waves are generated. On short waves these are of easily visible amplitude and serve to identify the presence of a roller. ¿ American Geophysical Union 1990 |