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Hammack et al. 1991
Hammack, J., Scheffner, N. and Segur, H. (1991). A note on the generation and narrowness of periodic rip currents. Journal of Geophysical Research 96: doi: 10.1029/90JC02304. issn: 0148-0227.

Periodic rip currents on a wide planar beach are generated in the laboratory by shoaling water wave that are periodic in time and in two spatial directions: one normal (x direction) and one parallel (y direction) to the shoreline. These short-crested waves propagate in water of uniform depth with nearly permanent form. They are described analytically by a family of solutions of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation (KP solutions of genus 2). During shoaling, genus 2 waves retain their spatial pattern past breaking, and they quickly generate periodic rip currents along the beach with a spacing of one-half the y wavelength of the incident waves. KP theory also provides a plausible explanation and prediction for the narrow widths, relative to their longshore spacing, of rip currents generated in this manner. An estimate of their widths is one-half the x wavelength of the incident waves. ¿American Geophysical Union 1991

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Keywords
Oceanography, General, Analytical modeling, Oceanography, General, Climate and interannual variability, Oceanography, Physical, Ocean optics, Oceanography, Biological and Chemical, Plankton
Journal
Journal of Geophysical Research
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American Geophysical Union
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