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Doering & Donelan 1993
Doering, J.C. and Donelan, M.A. (1993). The joint distribution of heights and periods of shoaling waves. Journal of Geophysical Research 98: doi: 10.1029/93JC00861. issn: 0148-0227.

The evolution of the joint distribution of wave heights and periods that results from shoaling is investigated using laboratory data obtained from experiments conducted on two (1:40 and 1:20) planar beach slopes. The data are compared to the theoretical joint distribution for wave heights and periods proposed by Longuet-Higgins (1983). For unbroken waves with d/L>≈0.1 the shapes of the observed and predicted distributions agree reasonably well. However, the predicted joint distribution given by Longuet-Higgins (1983) is displaced relative to the observed distribution. A parameterization for the observed displacement is offered. In addition, a parameterization for the variation of the spectral width parameter through the shoaling regions is also given. ¿ American Geophysical Union 1993

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Abstract

Keywords
Oceanography, Physical, Surface waves and tides
Journal
Journal of Geophysical Research
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Publisher
American Geophysical Union
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