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Kobayashi & Karjadi 1996
Kobayashi, N. and Karjadi, E.A. (1996). Obliquely incident irregular waves in surf and swash zones. Journal of Geophysical Research 101: doi: 10.1029/95JC03628. issn: 0148-0227.

A time-dependent numerical model is developed for predicting the free surface elevation and depth-averaged cross-shore and alongshore velocities in the swash and surf zones under obliquely incident irregular waves. The assumption of small incident angles is made to simplify the finite-amplitude, shallow-water equations and allow the computation of the cross-shore fluid motion using the existing one-dimensional model for normally incident waves. The developed numerical model is compared with available field data. The time-dependent model is shown to be capable of predicting the cross-shore variations of the root-mean-square wave height and longshore current in the surf zone. The numerical model predicts large cross-shore and alongshore velocities near the shoreline. The causes of these large velocities are examined but cannot be ascertained for lack of velocity data near the shoreline. ¿ American Geophysical Union 1996

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Abstract

Keywords
Oceanography, Physical, Surface waves and tides, Oceanography, Physical, Nearshore processes, Oceanography, Physical, Sea level variations, Oceanography, Physical, Turbulence, diffusion, and mixing processes
Journal
Journal of Geophysical Research
http://www.agu.org/journals/jb/
Publisher
American Geophysical Union
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