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Janssen et al. 2003
Janssen, T.T., Battjes, J.A. and van Dongeren, A.R. (2003). Long waves induced by short-wave groups over a sloping bottom. Journal of Geophysical Research 108: doi: 10.1029/2002JC001515. issn: 0148-0227.

The cross-shore propagation of group-bound long waves is investigated. A detailed laboratory data set from Boers <1996> is analyzed using primarily the cross-correlation function for a sequence of closely spaced cross-shore locations, thus visualizing the propagation of the short-wave envelope and attendant low-frequency motion in detail. The results confirm the previously observed lag of the forced subharmonics behind the short-wave envelope that increases with decreasing water depth. The forced subharmonics are found to be released and reflected at the shoreline and to propagate in offshore direction as free waves. A theoretical, linear model for the forced wave evolution accurate to first order in the relative bottom slope is presented; it predicts a bottom-slope induced, spatially varying phase shift between the short-wave envelope and forced waves which is in good agreement with the observations. The phase shift has dynamical consequences since it allows energy transfer between the short-wave groups and the forced low-frequency response.

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Abstract

Keywords
Oceanography, Physical, Surface waves and tides, Oceanography, General, Analytical modeling, Oceanography, Physical, Nearshore processes, Oceanography, Physical, General or miscellaneous
Journal
Journal of Geophysical Research
http://www.agu.org/journals/jb/
Publisher
American Geophysical Union
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