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Ruggiero et al. 2004
Ruggiero, P., Holman, R.A. and Beach, R.A. (2004). Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 109: doi: 10.1029/2003JC002160. issn: 0148-0227.

Because of highly dissipative conditions and strong alongshore gradients in foreshore beach morphology, wave run-up data collected along the central Oregon coast during February 1996 stand in contrast to run-up data currently available in the literature. During a single data run lasting approximately 90 min, the significant vertical run-up elevation varied by a factor of 2 along the 1.6 km study site, ranging from 26 to 61% of the offshore significant wave height, and was found to be linearly dependent on the local foreshore beach slope that varied by a factor of 5. Run-up motions on this high-energy dissipative beach were dominated by infragravity (low frequency) energy with peak periods of approximately 230 s. Incident band energy levels were 2.5 to 3 orders of magnitude lower than the low-frequency spectral peaks and typically 96% of the run-up variance was in the infragravity band. A broad region of the run-up spectra exhibited an f-4 roll off, typical of saturation, extending to frequencies lower than observed in previous studies. The run-up spectra were dependent on beach slope with spectra for steeper foreshore slopes shifted toward higher frequencies than spectra for shallower foreshore slopes. At infragravity frequencies, run-up motions were coherent over alongshore length scales in excess of 1 km, significantly greater than decorrelation length scales on moderate to reflective beaches.

BACKGROUND DATA FILES

Abstract

Keywords
Oceanography, Physical, Nearshore processes, Marine Geology and Geophysics, Littoral processes, Oceanography, Physical, Instruments and techniques, wave run-up, dissipative beach, swash zone, Oregon, nearshore, infragravity
Journal
Journal of Geophysical Research
http://www.agu.org/journals/jb/
Publisher
American Geophysical Union
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