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Thomson et al. 2006
Thomson, J., Elgar, S., Raubenheimer, B., Herbers, T.H.C. and Guza, R.T. (2006). Tidal modulation of infragravity waves via nonlinear energy losses in the surfzone. Geophysical Research Letters 33: doi: 10.1029/2005GL025514. issn: 0094-8276.

The strong tidal modulation of infragravity (200 to 20 s period) waves observed on the southern California shelf is shown to be the result of nonlinear transfers of energy from these low-frequency long waves to higher-frequency motions. The energy loss occurs in the surfzone, and is stronger as waves propagate over the convex low-tide beach profile than over the concave high-tide profile, resulting in a tidal modulation of seaward-radiated infragravity energy. Although previous studies have attributed infragravity energy losses in the surfzone to bottom drag and turbulence, theoretical estimates using both observations and numerical simulations suggest nonlinear transfers dominate. The observed beach profiles and energy transfers are similar along several km of the southern California coast, providing a mechanism for the tidal modulation of infragravity waves observed in bottom-pressure and seismic records on the continental shelf and in the deep ocean.

BACKGROUND DATA FILES

Abstract

Keywords
Oceanography, Physical, Nearshore processes, Oceanography, Physical, Surface waves and tides, Oceanography, Physical, Topographic/bathymetric interactions, Seismology, Surface waves and free oscillations
Journal
Geophysical Research Letters
http://www.agu.org/journals/gl/
Publisher
American Geophysical Union
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