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Detailed Reference Information
Huntley et al. 1981
Huntley, D.A., Guza, R.T. and Thornton, E.B. (1981). Field Observations of surf beat 1. Progressive edge waves. Journal of Geophysical Research 86: doi: 10.1029/JC086iC07p06451. issn: 0148-0227.

Nineteen biaxial electromagnetic current meters have been used to determine the longshore and on/offshore structure of currents at surf beat periods (1-4 min). The sensors formed two linear arrays, a longshore array with the surf zone and an on/offshore array stretching from the shoreline to well beyond the breaker line. Analysis of the longshore current components yields a clear picture of progressive low-mode edge waves, with frequency-wave number dispersion relations which are in remarkably good agreement with predictions. Some separation of edge wave modes is found, with mode zero energy dominating in the frequency band 0.006 and 0.011 Hz and mode one between 0.015 and 0.025 Hz. On/off-shore currents present a rather different picture which, while not inconsistent with the longshore currents, suggests that other sources of energy are also important to the on/offshore currents. These include standing edge wave probably formed by reflections at nearby Scripps Canyon, and motions which are nonresonantly forced by incoming wave groups.

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Journal of Geophysical Research
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