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Janssen & Komen 1982
Janssen, P.A.E.M. and Komen, G.J. (1982). Modification of the surface elevation probability distribution in ocean swell by nonlinear spectral broadening. Journal of Geophysical Research 87: doi: 10.1029/JC087iC06p04155. issn: 0148-0227.

In this paper we investigate the effect of Benjamin-Feir instability on the surface elevation probability distribution. A uniform wave train is unstable to modulational perturbations, giving rise to sidebands in the spectrum of the surface elevation (hence a broadening of the spectrum). Since these sidebands are phase-locked, one should therefore expect deviations fromthe Gaussian probability distribution. To calculate the surface elevation probability distribution, we assume that the end state of the instability is given by a stable cnoidal wave solution. The present effect could play a role in nature; especially, it may be relevant for the description of swell.

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Journal of Geophysical Research
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