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Elgar et al. 1988
Elgar, S., Guza, R.T. and Freilich, M.H. (1988). Eulerian measurements of horizontal accelerations in shoaling gravity waves. Journal of Geophysical Research 93: doi: 10.1029/88JC00087. issn: 0148-0227.

Laboratory and field measurements of suspended sediment in the nearshore suggest that fluid accelerations are an important factor in sediment transport by oscillatory waves. Here, Eulerian accelerations of the cross-shore velocity are calculated from measurements of velocity obtained by an array of bottommounted electromagnetic flow meters spanning a natural surf zone. Large shoreward accelerations of brief duration are associated with the steep front faces of both near-breaking and breaking waves. Weaker offshore accelerations of longer duration occur during passage of the more gently sloped rear faces. The acceleration field is thus strongly skewed in the shoreward direction. Power spectra and bispectra indicate, as expected, that statistics of the acceleration field are significantly influenced by high-frequency motions but are rather insensitive to surf beat. ¿ American Geophysical Union 1988

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Abstract

Keywords
Oceanography, Physical, Surface waves and tides, Oceanography, Physical, Currents
Journal
Journal of Geophysical Research
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Publisher
American Geophysical Union
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